The French Michelin 3 star of New York, chef Eric Ripert stops over in Paris

Ranked 2nd, equally with Japanese Kyubey, was it worth the trip from New York ?

Yes, it was important to be here, at the Quai d'Orsay, to back up The List of Philippe Faure, dedicated to the promotion of French gastronomy in the world. It is not in compettion with the Michelin, nor the 50 Best. This newcomer enables everyone to partake in the debate, because its classification is based on an algorithm comprising the advice of 500 different clients.

Are you afraid of a bad review in the New York Times or the Michelin ?

Both are important and each one pays its bills. The New York Times is very respected in the United States and the Michelin has rewarded us with 3 stars since 10 years for our work at Bernardin, where I am associated with Maguy Le Coze.

Why did you never open other restaurants ?

I tried in Grand Cayman and Philadelphia, but it did not appeal to me. I lost my creativity by thinking of development, and I kind of scatttered myself dealing with issues such as dining rooms, suppliers and accounting. I have no ego when it comes to that. Opening a restaurant in Paris and taking a plane once per month to supervise a brigade that I don't know would not work. I am not into business, I am into cuisine.

Is it easy to produce French cuisine in the United States ?

Yes, Americans have become experts in terms of gastronomy. However, French cuisine is a little less trendy at the moment, in Manhattan, even if red, white and blue restaurants are always full. You need to reserve at least a month ahead of time to get a table at our restaurent because we are considered the very best in terms of fish around the country, with an average price of 135 € at lunch and 220 € in the evening.

Chinese caviar on a King Fish, here is a very good way to start the festivities at Bernardin. © DR

Under the slivers of colourful cauliflowers, a crab salad awaits gourmets. © DR

What is the American taste all about ?

It does not exist, one must depart from easy clichés. Each region has its specialties, its own local products, there is not a uniform American cuisine. For example, Washington DC is oriented towards seaside savours while California is axed on top notch products thanks to its very fertile land and its sunny climate. And the organic label is very important in the United States.

Is it useful being both chef and good looking ?

It works well for TV, but it certainly does not help in the kitchen ! My team really just wants to know how to make a croissant, a hollandaise sauce, and how to properly remove fish bones. I prefer discussing the Légion d'Honneur award I received at the French consulate of New York, from the hands of art collector Daniel Wildenstein—that is truly a real pride for me.

What is the concept of your TV series, « With Eric », on the public channel PBS ?

The idea, is going to the source of the product to find inspiration. We won 2 Emmy Awards despite my strong French accent. For example, we begin by filming the Bernardin cuisine before going to visit a Japanese oyster producer. It's very interactive…

Prepared on the spot, variations around the scallop are one of the strong points of the house. © DR

In the spotlight, apple with sabayon and Armagnac are a must for dessert. © DR

Eric Ripert, a few dates

At 52-years-old, the chef has a very impressive professional background. Originally from Antibes, he attended the Ecole Hôtelière of Perpignan before working with the team of La Tour d'Argent then Joël Robuchon. In 1989, he attempts the American adventure by working for Jean-Louis Paladin, precursor of leading French chefs on the other side of the Atlantic. And it's in 1994 that he takes over after Gilbert Le Coze, at Bernardin, making it one of the best fish restaurants in the United States. Since, he has been showered with awards…