In Laguiole, chef Sébastien Bras gives up his 3 Michelin stars and bounces back stronger than ever

No regrets having left the Guide Michelin?

Absolutely not! The guide accepted my request and it's a personal choice of life. After 25 years with my head in the stars, I felt like detaching myself from this handsome institution in order to work more serenely. I disavow nothing, Michelin brought us a lot, it was an incredible opportunity, but I intend to continue creating with just as much happiness and less stress.

You are not afraid of being isolated ?

I have been for a long time, in Auvergne, but my restaurant is full every day, lunch and dinner. It's quite reassuring and if the clients, who only travel through the pages of the three-star section of the guide, no longer find me, this is not an issue, I will have others, it's a voluntary risk on my part, I am fully aware of this, but it was a seriously thought-out decision.

Overlooking the plateau de l'Aubrac, Sébastien Bras' family hotel-restaurant is nestled under a lauze roof. © J-L Bellurget

Very conceptual, the chef's Spring asparagus plate is totally minimalist. © DR

Can one speak of a Bras dynasty in the kitchen?

I am the third generation of chefs from the same family, but I don't feel like putting the pressure on my children, they are only 14 and 16 years old and I don't want to force destiny. Really not!

You are opening another restaurant ?

After Le Suquet in Laguiole, Toya in Japan, the Café Bras of the Soulages museum in Rodez, and Le Capucin in Millau, this latest venture will be located at the heart of the Bourse du Commerce in Paris, in the new museum of François Pinault. On the menus, guests will be able to learn about the history of the place, in relation with art.

Baptized Gargouillou, this dish, mixing flowers and vegetables, is a signature creation of Le Suquet. © DR

What does your new range of products look like ?

My collection of « Niac » is the DNA of my work. Our clients were curious to discover our secrets and my culinary expression, whether salty or sweet. Powders, vinegars, syrups, plants, germinated lentils and herbal teas might very well season your dishes, just like my cooking.

It is best to come enjoy this dessert right here rather than try to reproduce it at  home… © DR