The Top 10 of contemporary brasseries, in Paris
Far from flamboyant decors, contemporary brasseries wager on sobriety and sure values to impose their place in the Parisian spotlight.
1. Champeaux, the 2.0 brasserie, supervised by Alain Ducasse
Under the Canopée of Les Halles, this 2.0 brasserie, supervized by Alain Ducasse, is equipped with a large slate board that functions with metallic blades, like at the airport. Its name pays homage to an emplacement where Louis VI installed the ancestor of a huge food market. Along with his chef Luc Broigniez, who also worked in the kitchens of Allard, then at Benoit, and a very pro dining room staff, the multi-star chef imposes sure values and a roguish cuisine. Egg mimosa, grandmother pâté with pickles, snails with sorrel, slice of pan fried blood sausage, coquillettes pasta with ham/Comté cheese/black truffle, filet of duck with spices and vanilla or chocolat soufflés, the great classics, with less fat, less starch and sugar, but lots of vegetables, condiments and spicy sauces. Grab those forks ! À la carte : 50 €. La Canopée, Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau, 75001 Paris. Open 7/7, service until midnight. Tel : 01 53 45 84 50 and www.restaurant-champeaux.com
2. Les Grandes Marches, at Opéra Bastille
Anchored at Opéra Bastille, this elegant and welcoming ship has found its cruising rhythm under the helm of the Joulie group. Here, festivities begin at the zinc bar and continue with steady tradition. Presented with panache by chef Franck de Jarmy, fresh seafood platters, foie gras of duck with fruit chutney, onion soup, steamed cod with eggplant caviar, confit de canard sarladaise style and ambered baba au rhum all live up to their promise. A good reason to return to the Eastern area of Paris ! Formula : 25 €, menu : 36 €, à la carte 55 €. 6, place de la Bastille, 75012 Paris. Open 7/7, service until 1am. Tel : 01 43 42 90 32 and www.grandes-marches.com
3. Réjane, in homage to Joël Robuchon
Within the Hotel Nolinski, chef Fulvio Pischedda, a defector of Atelier Robuchon Etoile, made a good decision : revisiting the great classics without any theatricality, nor bluff. And it's in this space with feminine and poetic lines that he presents his suggestions. Carpaccio or whiting with capers, tartine of pork with parmesan, gratin of gnocchis tomatoes-courgettes for die hard « veggies », fried Colbert whiting with tartare sauce and duck shepherd's pie are right up the gourmet alley of businessmen. It's a full house! À la carte : 50 €. 16, avenue de l'Opéra, 75001 Paris. Closed Sunday night, service until 11pm. Tel : 01 42 86 10 10 and www.brasserierejane.com
4. La Rotonde de la Muette, the gourmet enclave of Yannick Tessier
In the restaurant world, a wind of renewal is blowing on leading houses showcasing new gilded decors. Around the corner from the Ranelagh gardens, a new art of living is in the spotlight under two large chandeliers dating back to the 30s. One comes here to enjoy traditional recipes enhanced by Yannick Tessier, a disciple of Alain Senderens. His coddled egg on white asparagus with capers and croûtons, prime rib of beef selected from the owner's farm in the Aveyron region, haunch of tender veal with mushrooms and the beef filet with black pepper are all enjoyed with delight. À la carte : 60 €. 12, chaussée de la Muette, 75016 Paris. Open 7/7, service until 11pm. Tel : 01 45 24 45 45 et www.rotondemuette.paris
5. The 110 of Taillevent, In Vino Veritas
In a dining room designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, on the theme of vineyards and wine, no less than 110 vintages are served by the glass. A selection made amongst the most prestigious bottles, stemming from each wine region in France, and elsewhere. Under the eagle eye of Émile Cotte, the high-end yet simple menu is conceived around the product where classicisim sometimes becomes a little daring. Creative yet reassuring, such is the case for foie gras with beef tail, squid à la plancha with Espelette pimento, steamed cod with seaweed and flank steak with shallots. An upscale address for a wonderful moment of pleasure while discovering great wines... Menu : 44 €, à la carte : 70 €. 195, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. Open 7/7, service until 11pm. Tel. : 01 40 74 20 20 and www.taillevent.com
6. Le Sancerre, star of the Butte Montmartre
Newcomer in this historical district, this amusing brasserie is the new buzz in Montmartre. Locals, tourists and bobos out for a good time have already taken by storm its sunny terrace to come sip cocktails, and the low key dining room, calmer, to enjoy fresh products, carefully selected amongst local producers. On the plate, make room for quality French cuisine ! Filets of herring, coquillettes pasta with freshly grated truffles on Bellotta ham, crispy sweetbreads à la plancha, filet of beef Rossini with Port sauce, the house specialties deserve the detour to Abbesses. À la carte : 40 €, brunch : 22 €. 35, rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris. Open 7/7, service until 11pm. Tel. : 01 42 58 08 20 et lesancerreparis.fr
7. La Belle Armée, a brasserie with off-beat classicism
Facing the Arc de Triomphe, the Costes empire features a brasserie of classic tradition with a twist. Enriched with 70's touches, Charles Tassin has decorated the brasserie like a deluxe bivouac in honor of Napoleon's Grande Armée. At the ovens of this flagship, part of the Groupe Beaumarlly, one finds Fabrice Cornée, a chef who made a name for himself in Winter resorts, Grand Colbert and Zimmer. His mission consists in enhancing recipes celebrated by fashion addicts and clubbers of upscale neighborhoods. For them, he has elaborated a whipped King Crab and avocado, Chili Tom Yam cod, calf's liver in a raisin sauce and a Pavlova of small red fruit. And of course, his talent is at the rendezvous. À la carte : 70 €. 3, avenue de la Grande Armée, 75016 Paris. Open 7/7, service until midnight. Tél : 01 45 00 24 77 and labellearmee.com
8. La Brasserie du Printemps, a modista special
On the 6th floor of the Printemps department store, the tables of Groupe Bertrand pay homage to Paris and its fashion, under a historical cupola, while being resolutely modern. The menu is a far cry from frustrating nibbles, much more into solid dishes, setting forth the savors of the season. For starters, a salad of shredded beef, ravioles from the Dauphiné region with minced glazed fennel, the skewer of scallops with a rouille topping, farm range chicken breast with Anna apples and the Lolita Cup, for dessert, generally create harmony at the table. Menu : 29,50 €, à la carte : 50 €. 64, boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris. Closed on Sunday, service until 8pm and 10pm on Thursdays. Tel : 01 42 82 58 84 and www.printemps.com
9. Chez Francis, a mythical address in Paris
Looking straight at the Eiffel Tower, this mythical address, whose terrace is in front of the Pont de l'Alma, has been decorated in red and gold by designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. The clientele of the Golden Triangle meets here for business lunches, taking advantage of Groupe Richard's exceptional fresh seafood. And in order to reassure its regulars focused on their timing, as well as the quality of the cuisine, the staff is on the ready to serve their exacting guests. On the slate, small artichokes with asparagus tips, tartare of Charolais beef, sole meunière and spit roasted chicken from the Bresse are all irreprochable, while the French brioche is considered one of the best in the capital. Faultless! À la carte : 70 €. 7, place de l'Alma, 75008 Paris. Open 7/7, service until midnight. Tel : 01 47 20 86 83 et chezfrancis-restaurant.com
10. L'Étoile du Nord, with Thierry Marx
The two-starred chef of the Mandarin Oriental, Thierry Marx, has opened an upscale annex in the largest train stations of Europe, facing the Eurostar departing for London. Featuring the resolutely innovative industrial architecture of Patrick Bouchain and a great view on the buzzing station activity, this space tells a lot when it comes to new traveling codes and cooking trends. To seduce foodies, the chef has written up on his weekly chart a tartare of beets with fresh goat cheese, mackerel marinated with a duo of apples, a buttery skate wing with green cabbage, braised beef with polenta, all served in small pots. Menu : 32 €, à la carte : 50 €, brunch : 21 €. 18, rue de Dunkerque, 75010 Paris. Open 7/7, service until 10pm. Tel : 01 40 36 54 36 and www.letoiledunord.fr
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